I’ve Gotta Fly? Sail? Drive? To St. Somewhere

For obvious reasons, it’s been a long time since I’ve had a capital “V” Vacation. The kind that involves airplanes, passports and feeble WiFi. All things considered, I know I’ve been very fortunate to have been able to take lowercase “v” vacations — a Baycation last summer (https://sabrecalypso.wordpress.com/2020/07/14/baycation-for-real-this-time/), and a road trip to Amelia Island last year.

The beach on Amelia Island is long, deep and uncrowded, at least in November.
Surfers, properly dressed, enjoy the waves. We found November too chilly to go swimming.
Beachcombing on Amelia Island yields shark’s teeth. My special gift is finding the tiniest teeth, while I have absolutely no luck finding bigger ones.
Not so ferocious looking from the proper perspective!

This year, we had a loose plan to once again take a Baycation. But before we knew it, we were looking at a July week, which from experience tends not to be the optimal time for Chesapeake cruising. Nevertheless, we persisted, and planned to sail away from St. Michaels (Maryland) after Annapolis Yacht Club’s annual newcomer’s cruise. As our vacation week approached, the weather forecast looked less promising (hot! even at night!), and reports from the field (sea?) indicated an overabundance of jellyfish. Between not being able to sleep due to the heat (we only have AC when connected to shore power — i.e. at a marina, which we prefer to avoid on vacation), and not being able to swim (the highlight of a Baycation), we made Plan B, albeit not without second-guessing ourselves the entire run-up to departure.

We proceeded to sail to St. Mike’s, where we docked at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum with about 50 other AYC boats. Arrival day was hot and steamy, and out doubts about pursuing Plan B were squashed when our AC stopped because a giant nettle snotball clogged the AC’s water intake and required manual cleaning.

If only nettles were beautifully and safely encased in glass….
Instead, we get this slimy, stinging mess.

Despite St. Michaels harbor being plagued with jellyfish, the following day (Saturday) was miraculously breezy and pleasant despite it being July. I spent a few hours shopping on Talbot Street. I often joke that I tend to buy clothes for the lifestyle I wish I had (resort, beach) as opposed to the one I actually have (work, though casual, and some travel), and this was no exception.

Patterns and styles fit for St. Somewhere. And perhaps nowhere else!

We had work to do afterward. As part of welcoming newcomers, we had a group activity of creating a centerpiece for our table. As an icebreaker, one of the permitted themes of our centerpieces was to reflect a passion of the people at the table — ours was beach bars. Our theme was reflected in sand, miniature wooden bars, tiny drink bottles, umbrellas, soggy dollars, little shot glasses, etc.

How we didn’t win with this inspired artistry is beyond comprehension.

After having too much fun in furthering the cause of getting to know the newcomers on Saturday night, we slogged home in weather that had returned to July form, but the pod of dolphins we spied frolicking in the Miles River made my day.

As for Plan B … well, it wasn’t easy to arrange. As pandemic restrictions have eased, the demand for vacations (especially when Vacations aren’t as available) let me scrambling to find a last-minute beach rental within a day’s drive of home. At the last minute, I scored a cute cottage on VRBO 2 lots from the beach on St. Simons Island. I’d never been there before, but the island is located on that Spanish-mossy, lowcountry stretch of coast that I love between Wilmington, NC and Amelia Island.

If we drove without stops, we could make it to St. Simons in around 9 hours by car, so we drove. As I’ve written before, Rick and I actually enjoy road trips. We load up with red candy (Twizzlers, swedish fish), crank up the tunes, solve the problems of the world, and make wise observations of the world of I-95.

Has any adult without children ever stopped at South of the Border? If you have, tell me about it!

“It’s a fine line between Saturday night and Sunday morning” quoth that great sage, Jimmy Buffett. Above is Exhibit A in support of that proposition!

For a last-minute rental — for which I had minimal expectations — we got lucky. It was lovingly restored and fresh, with original wide-plank pine floors, beadboard walls, and crisp beachy colors — updated with a well-stocked modern kitchen and baths, and complete with outdoor showers. Best of all, we could see the ocean between houses from our screened porch, with only a short walk to get to the small beach area near the “village” of St. Simons.

The “downtown” area of St. Simons features a lowkey but bustling shopping and dining scene, a fishing pier, and a lighthouse. It’s a little more commercial than is my usual taste, but to its credit, there are no busy arcades, boardwalks, or chain restaurants.
At low tide, the beach seems endless. It’s also flat and hard, suitable for long walks or bike rides. There’s not much in the way of beachcombing (or at least there wasn’t when we were there), and I didn’t find a single shark’s tooth.
Most buildings are not very tall, and while there appeared to be a few swanky resorts on the beach, chain motels were a distance from the water.

Our ambitions for this week were non-existent. We had thoughts of exploration, and one day we actually did make a trip to Jekyll Island. But sand gravity played its part and we never got out of the car, instead driving back to the beach.

I think we were more interested in crossing this bridge to Jekyll Island than actually spending time on the island.
The Georgia “mainland” is separated from the “Golden Isles” — the sea islands — by glorious lowcountry marshes and streams.

The hardest choices we faced every day were where to have dinner. I’d made some reservations before arriving — and was glad to have done so. The best meal we enjoyed was at Halyards — where the shrimp and grits were expectedly wonderful (with shrimp harvested just offshore hours earlier) and we were introduced to a hyper-local (and delicious) fish called triple tail.

A great lunchtime view from Fiddler’s — where shrimp were the name of the game.

Rick had to handle several business calls, so I took the opportunity to explore other beaches (rather than strangle him (or his co-workers) for not giving vacation the respect it deserves). My favorite was the one at Gould’s Inlet, a small inlet that connects the Atlantic to the marshes. It’s the kind of beach that I love: ever-changing, with sandbars and endlessly mutating contours, and not too many people. We returned here a second day.

The sandbar disappears at high tide. Signs warn against going there, suggesting that many an explorer has been stranded by the tide.
A tidal creek and marsh backs the beach at Gould’s Inlet.
We never saw a lifeguard.

Ultimately, we spent most of our time close to “home.” Once I learned that there were no restrictions on the type of liquid refreshment we could bring to the beach (only that the container had to be plastic or glass), all I needed was a Yeti full of chilled rose and a good book. Rick and I spent hours each day bobbing in the surf until our fingers became pruny; then we’d get out of the water, dry off, and go back in again.

In the tide pools, the water was bathtub warm, but further out, it was cool and refreshing. And we only saw a single, dead jellyfish on the beach.

Any doubts about having chosen Plan B blew away with the sand. Despite being hundreds of miles south of Chesapeake Bay, we enjoyed better weather in Georgia.

Too much sun, sunscreen, salt and sand — but we’re happy and mellow at Barrier Island Brewing Company.

Here’s hoping the next trip is a Vacation.

1 thought on “I’ve Gotta Fly? Sail? Drive? To St. Somewhere

  1. DBHouston

    There is a Lions Den on I-10 in Southern Louisiana. After passing the abundance of signs for years (Decades?), my best friend and I stopped in one time. It had all the charm of a convenience store filled with sex toys and videos in the middle of nowhere. Super….

    Reply

Leave a comment